Artspacers Logo sells the frame spacer EconoSpace, the rabbet depth extender RabbetSpace, and many other products for framing artwork.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about spacers and reasons why frame spacers should be used when framing art work.
Do I have to cut the glass any different when using EconoSpace?
Yes. It is recommended to make the allowance (the difference between the glass size and the frame size) about 1/32 to 1/16 inch rather than the industry standard 1/8 inch. The glass will shift in the frame the amount of the allowance and the spacer will probably show under the lip of the frame. The EconoSpace should be stuck onto the glass flush with the edge to insure full adhesive engagement and provide some semblance of permanence.
What is the best way to cut EconoSpace? The best way to cut EconoSpace is with garden shears called anvil pruners. Turn the EconoSpace on edge rather than laying flat in the shears and it won’t crush. A razor blade will work too but is not as handy or safe as anvil pruners. A simple butt joint will look like its been mitered.
Spacers in general  
How much airspace do I need for art on paper? Airspace is needed to promote air circulation between the glass and the art. This air circulation helps prevent mold growth and buckling. It also keeps any condensation caused by rapid changes in humidity/temperature from damaging the art. Even on quite large but flat pieces a double matt (1/8 inch thick) has proved to be adequate. So a 1/8 inch spacer would also be adequate. If the art is already buckled or wavy you might consider going to a deeper spacer.
Must the spacer go all around the frame or can I use short pieces? You could use pieces shorter than the side of the frame but it would look terrible. You will be able to see the spacer under the lip of most frames and if there is a gap it will really stand out. The art will probably buckle toward the glass where the gaps are.
How do I attach the art if I want to “float” it on a decorative background?

The easiest way is to hinge your art to a slightly smaller piece of foam board or mat board and then bond that board to the decorative backing with a few dollops of a flexible adhesive such as acrylic panel adhesive. This will allow some expansion/contraction of the different materials and still be easily removed for re-framing. (You can “saw” through the adhesive dots with a length of thin picture wire or dental floss.)

Another method is to attach long hinges to the back of the art and push them through slits in the decorative backing. “T” the hinges on the backside of the backing.

Why you should use spacers
Damage to Art
Paper borne art and photographs held in contact with the glass in a frame may suffer mold growth, image transfer, water staining, and adhesion to the glass due to condensation on the inside of the glass. These spacers provide the proper airspace to help prevent this damage.
Paper expands and contracts with changes in humidity. Lack of air circulation across the face of the paper will result in buckling due to slight differences in the humidity content of the paper. (i.e.; The edges and corners may be more humid than the central area). Proper airspace will allow the air to circulate and equalize the humidity across the face of the paper which will help prevent this buckling.
Glossy Prints
These spacers will prevent "Newton Rings" and the wet spots that appear on photographs and glossy prints by preventing the art from contacting the glass.
When framing needlework with glass, these spacers will allow the piece to "breathe" helping to prevent thread rot and mold growth by providing the necessary air circulation across the face of the piece. Using spacers will also allow you to achieve a fully padded look without crushing large stitches and knots against the glass.
Preservation Framing
These spacers are quality products for the framer and conservator. The plastic is neutral pH and has no plasticizers to harm fine art. (Test report available). They are made from KOSTAR®, a co-polyester made by Eastman Chemical Co. The acrylic adhesive used on Econospace is neutral pH and will not outgas harmful chemicals. (Of course, the adhesive should be adhered to the glass, not to the art).
You must allow for the free expansion and contraction of the art and backing materials in a frame. Any pressure against the backing will cause the art to buckle with changes in temperature and humidity. In wood frames, don't "pinch" the backing in the frame with diamond points, brads, or fitting staples. Allow a little looseness so the art can expand and contract freely.

In metal frames, the commonly used spring clips apply too much pressure against the backing causing the art to buckle. It is recommended to glue matboard or foamcore strips onto the edge of the backing to almost fill the space remaining behind the backing. Leave it all a little loose to prevent buckling.

In environments that have great changes in humidity, temperature, dust, or insects, it is recommended to seal the glass-art-backing package with tape. This will help protect the art from buckling, dirt, and other damages. The adhesive against the edge of the freshly cut backing or foam boards will also adhere to all the little particles that always seem to escape into the frame job.

A Note About Allowances
An appropriate allowance between the glass size, art package size, and the frame size is necessary to allow for inaccuracies in measuring, marking, cutting, and squareness of all the materials used in a frame. Expansion and contraction of all materials from temperature and humidity must also be considered.
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Information courtesy of FrameTek™